Que el escualano está en el listado VIP de activos de última tendencia nadie lo puede discutir y su fama se debe a sus grandes beneficios.
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Los expertos dicen que es fundamental para mantener la hidratación de la piel, mejorando la función de la barrera hidrolipídica que protege a la piel de agentes externos y que evita que se pierda la humedad, favoreciendo así un equilibrio óptimo de hidratación, comenta Raquel González, directora de formación de Perricone MD.
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Cabe mencionar que, también, es un gran antioxidante que protegerá la piel ante agresores como los radicales libres, principales agentes del envejecimiento de la piel.
Además, posee otro beneficio añadido, el de vehiculizar otros principios y hacer incluso de booster. Forma parte de alrededor del 15% de las grasas naturales de la piel, pero a partir de los 20 o 30, se ralentiza la sintetización natural de este y, para mantener unos niveles óptimos, hay que acudir a opciones alternativas como la aplicación a partir de cosméticos. Al ser un principio que produce el organismo, lo identifica como un agente propio, permitiendo así la penetración de diferentes ingredientes. Es como si dejásemos entrar a un invitado porque viene de parte de un amigo de confianza. explica Elisabeth San Gregorio, directora técnica de Medik8.
¿Y cuál es la diferencia con el escualeno, con E?
El escualano es un principio derivado de la oliva y que se forma por estabilización del escualeno, un ingrediente que, como tal, es comedogénico y propicia los procesos acneicos. Para evitarlo, se estabiliza en laboratorio, convirtiéndolo en escualano (con A) consiguiendo los mismos beneficios sin congestionar la piel, explica Estefanía Nieto, responsable técnica de Omorovicza.
Resulta imprescindible diferenciarlos porque, del mismo modo que cambia una letra en su denominación, también se modifica el resultado sobre la piel, concluye Bella Hurtado, directora técnica de Boutijour.
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